Basso & Brooke and Emilio de la Morena
I am a girlie girl: I like dresses, skirts, heels, anything mini and cute and a little bit sexy but not over-the-top and yet elegant. And something tells me I am not the only one out there in this case… If you recognise yourself in this description, what can I say: Basso & Brooke and Emilio de la Morena are made for you. Those are men who understand women.
Basso & Brooke offered a vintage summer take on their signature prints this season. Following last season’s bold, graphic and bodicon long dresses and tights – see here – next summer will be much softer and romantic with fluid and billowing chiffons. Special mention to the shoes as well, decorated with iridescent metal prints. Described as “where bleeding edge techno-futurism meets dusty hand-scribbled antiquity” by their PR, this collection was to me infused with nostalgia and out of a Sofia Coppola daydream. The pastel palette made more unique with trompe l’oeil drapes and handwritten notes digitally silkscreened onto the fabrics, all from the masters: Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and Saint-Exupery. A dress becomes piece of art, or culture.
Emilio de la Morena’s S/S 11 collection resonated with the above description in many ways as well. He showed a selection of perfectly cut mini dresses and high-waisted skirts in pastel and sorbet shades, with a romantic edge and an artistic inspiration through the work of Argentinian painter Lucio Fontana, with his “slash series” where the artist cut holes in canvas. Yellows, oranges, mint greens and cream were the dominant hues, all in slashed organza and hand-perforated leather. Vertiginous heels from Charlotte Olympia in matching shades completed a light-hearted doll look. I left the room wanting the whole collection for myself. That’s usually a good sign. No wonder Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, seating right before me, is a fan – no doubt she will be sporting Emilio’s pieces soon on the red carpet.
Photography: Alize Morand. The Final at Basso & Brooke S/S 11. Please credit.