Presenting Tory Burch
Two models chatting at the Tory Burch F/W 2010 Presentation in Bryant Park, New York. Photo: Alize Morand.
Each season, there are different ways for a fashion designer to present his or her collection. Some organise huge shows in oversized venues packed with celebrities, like Marc Jacobs used to – although this season he did the opposite. Some organise smaller shows with a handpicked crowd in a studio, like Rad Hourani. Some have exhibitions, like Temperley. Others organise presentations with models walking around and posing, like The Green Shows. And finally, others have presentations, but on a runway, like Tory Burch.
The latter worked particularly well for several reasons. First, while presentation often means smaller scale and quieter event, this one was in the main catwalk tent in Bryant Park, with a packed crowd of fashion editors and buyers, a vibrant atmosphere, great music and models standing on the catwalk. Therefore making it almost a hybrid between a show and a presentation, and giving a more dramatic view to the spectator.
Secondly, the models were not posing but talking to each other and dancing on the pop playlist, which gave a real life to the clothes, and a genuine context.
Finally, and most importantly, the collection was fabulous: the perfect autumn/winter wardrobe. Luxe separates in gorgeous fabrics like tweed, fur, sequins and wool, all in reds, oranges, browns and greys, were accessorised with the most exciting leather bags with gold chains and straps, thick opaque tights and studded or laced-up boots. The styling was excellent and the make-up nude apart from bright red lipstick.
I chatted briefly with Tory, the lovely designer, who was the best advertising for her own collection, polished in a gold embellished minidress layered over black basics, and also attending shows of other designers that she appreciates, such as Vera Wang or Proenza Schouler. She revealed that after this hectic week, she was celebrating in New York with her crew, and then taking a well-deserved break in Switzerland. Maybe a first step to Europe, where she deserved to be known. Our loss.