Christopher Kane FW09
The most wonderful stripes of the season, on delicate yet structured fairy dresses.
It is always exciting to follow the evolution of a young designer, and that is what London Fashion Week is for.
So when said designer comes from your university, when his collections have evolved from the trend you like least – fluoro 80’s – to the non-trend you like most – romantic gaze – including mainly dresses, it is no surprise that he happens to be your coup de coeur of the season.
Christopher Kane might pretend he was short of inspiration this season but his collection was truly beautiful and inspiring to me. The fact that he was inspired by his early marker-pen sketches is undoubtedly significant: the silhouettes on the runway definitely had a fine art quality to me.
Far from his first fluoro-bodicon collection and his giant sequins trademark, this collection still echoed the nude and dark colors he had been using in the past. Although the dresses were embellished organza couture, reminiscent of some dreamy tale, Christopher also played on masculin-feminin by pairing them with derbies and tartan jumpers – a hint of the designer’s home spirit: Scotland?
Nude make-up and out-of-bed hair perfectly balanced the feminine style of the sheer, delicately pleated and ruffled dresses. His sister and creative / business partner Tammy certainly has a role to play behind this schizophrenic marvel. New face Dorothea Barth Jorgensen looked perfect in his creations, an allegory of English romance.
With his latest collection sold in less than a day on Net-a-Porter, and such a masterpiece this season, the Central Saint Martin’s graduate has gone a long way. I bet this is just the beginning.
Pictures: Style.com. Collage: Alize Morand.