Marc Jacobs FW09
Fashion week really feels like Christmas to me, although we are actually working more, and it looks like Summer might finally be back in London! So as we welcomed this first (sunny) day of London Fashion Week, it is also time to reflect on a week of fashion in New York City.
I thought I might actually report about my coup de coeur after each Fashion Week this season. And very surprisingly, for FW09 in NY, I fell head over (my 4″) heels for…Marc Jacobs. You cannot say I didn’t warn you.
I was born in the 80’s but fashionwise, I have never been a huge fan of this era and I have been tricking myself for months, pretending not to see the revival, and hoping that, as all crises, it would be over soon.
But Marc is provocative. I would never wear all the bright colors-fluoro-crazy prints items that were in in this collection, but it was very entertaining to look at on the runway, and that’s what a show is about , isn’t it? Some might argue that this is the purpose of couture and that there is no point in a ready-to-wear collection that is not made to be worn. Good point.
However, in between a few crazy items here to brighten the mood and add a hint of provocation, Marc made sure to showcase his unbelievable mastery in shapes, fabrics and design. Beautiful cocktail dresses, neutral palette of understated and classic garments – and here is the King of the art of layering! – and accessories to die for.
The styling was fantastic, and the looks ready-to-wear as such – strong shapes and structures, and belts! I think the main idea here was to use the individuality of the 80’s as a theme: no model looked the same with crazy customised make-up and hairstyles. I didn’t see models, but individuals who exude bold personalities and confidence.
Ultimately, it is about a spirit more than clothes, it is about what it evokes to each person. As Marc perfectly summed it up last season: ‘I’m not interested in my opinion, I’m interested in what you think, what you felt, what you saw, and yes I have my references, but who cares? It’s like: what did you think of it?’
Photos: Style.com. Collage: Alize Morand.