I meant to write about Charles Anastase since this, well actually since the day of the show, but you know how it is: the more you like something, the more difficult it is to write about it (beware THE Marc Jacobs article!).
Feeling one of Charles’ most covetable delicate cream-silk dresses in my hands yesterday in Browns reminded me of my duty: share my thoughts about one of the most talented young designers out there with the world.
I thought it would be interesting to have a look at Charles remarkable latest SS09 collection at this time, since the mystery around his Fall/Winter 2009 masterpiece will be unveiled on Saturday… here in London!
Because yes, although Charles is French, he showcases in London, just as Marc by Marc. (or some designers who showcase in Paris for a so-called credibility and more exposure). And I think that says a lot about the spirit of his clothes. The fact is, there are not that many young French designers with their own brand, own signature style, and London seems to be the perfect place for unbridled creativity infused with romantic-indie-geeky decadence.
For me, Charles is a true artist. And the fact that he is a talented and passionate self-taught illustrator has a lot to do with it. His innocent pencil drawings are unassuming but truly beautiful, and were even commissioned by Calvin Klein to illustrate one of CK’s advertising campaign. Plus he cites Degas ballerinas as one of his main inspirations – Chaaaaaaaarles, I love you.
His Spring-Summer collection evokes bohemian romantic mixed with sexy lolita: layered sheer ruffles, embroidered silk, cardigans and straw hats mixed with suspenders and knee-high tights. Add a touch of rock’n’roll: leather jackets and messy hair, and schoolgirl: navy blazer and geeky oversized glasses. Final touch: impossible heels. The indisputable similarity with Luella makes it even more relevant in London.
Style.com only records his SS09 and SS05 collections – lack of funding for the others? Sponsors, patrons, wake up! The excitement therefore reaches a climax concerning Saturday to finally witness Charles’ talent for Fall-Winter garments…
Photos: Marcio Madeira for Style.com. Drawing: Charles Anastase. Collage: Alize Morand.