RE: Balmain SS09
The first look just summarised how utterly glamourous yet rock’n’roll Christophe Decarnin had been imagining women to be next spring. As innocent-faced Anna Selezneva walked down the runway sporting a military-inspired, embellished structured dark jacket with ripped-off acid washed jeans and glitter sandals, it was obvious that this collection was not about trends but about a whole lifestyle concept.
Indeed all the current trends – whoever was the first designer to introduce them – were present, from military to sequins, from gladiator sandals to gothic. Not to mention ballerina, lace, transparency and so on. The Balmain signature pieces were on stage as well: asymmetric mini-dresses and metal studs or belts embedded in garments.
So yes, Christophe managed to be on top of trends and offer a collection both wearable and commercially sound, while ensuring consistency with the label’s image and past shows. Yet he managed to give all these elements the edge that set them apart from other runway shows.
The collection was playing on contrasts: rock and soft, glamourous and raw minimalism, sexy and androgyn, black and white, b&w and bright colours, metal studs and chiffon ruffles. All in luxury fabrics and couture craftsmanship.
But the ultimate tour de force of the master was to keep such high standard of elegance and Parisian effortlessness despite the shortness of the dresses, glitter, embellishments, sequins and bright colours. Far from tackiness, the nude make-up, minimal accessorisation and light loose hair gave models an innocent je-ne-sais-quoi.
I agree with Rumi: ‘Christophe is God!’